Sunday, 31 January 2016

Ellis Faas: My Chosen Brand

After briefly researching I have decided that Ellis Faas is one of the brands that interests me the most. I am intrigued by the concept of the brand as a whole and the idea behind it so much that I emailed the help desk of Ellis Faas asking for more information about the brand and to see if they could give me any free samples or empty packaging. I am awaiting a reply which will hopefully give me more information and even better, some samples!


Ellis Faas

Ellis has worked on various campaigns such as Chanel, Clinque, John Paul Gaultier, Nina Ricci, Absolut Vodka and Louis Vuitton. And magazines such as Harpers Bazaar, V Magazine, The Face, Another Magazine and Vogue (Australia, Deutschland, Italia, Nippon, Paris, Russia, UK).
Ellis Faas Bio. [online] [date viewed: 31/01/2016] Available from; http://www.ellisfaas.com/brand/about/


The Brand

Ellis Faas are a diverse which, to me, makes it stand out from other makeup brands because of their concept and packaging. I think the idea is different as Ellis Faas creates colours which are based on human undertones that the body produces naturally such as freckles, blood and bruises. Colours which exist naturally in our body but are shared by everyone. This means that no matter what age, complexity or style, the colours are designed to compliment and flatter.

All Ellis Faas products are cruelty free, meaning they are 'tested on supermodels' instead of animals. Most of their products are suitable for vegans except the mascaras and creamy eyes which contain beeswax and a couple of lips that contain Carmine.
Only tested on Supermodels. [online] [viewed 31/01/2016] Available from: http://www.ellisfaas.com/brand/only-tested-on-supermodels/ 

http://www.fashioncapital.co.uk/industry/news/325-lifestyle/12088-ELLIS-FAAS-MAKEUP-AN-INTERVIEW-WITH-ELLIS-FAAS

http://www.voltcafe.com/features/ellis-faas-makeup-artist


Products and Packaging

Lisa Eldridge, 2010. Lisa Eldridge - Reviews Ellis Faas makeup [online] [date viewed: 31/01/2016] Available from: https://youtu.be/hmav_IoP5UE

In this video, makeup artist Lisa Eldridge gives her opinions on Ellis Faas products and uses them for us to see. It is good to see how to use each products and what they look like on the skin and also to hear a professionals honest opinion about them. 

The Only Red is Ellis Red


Above is a short film about Ellis Red which is almost like some of the fashion films I looked at for my unit last year. It demonstrates the idea of Ellis Red, one of her most iconic colours of the human spectrum. I am really intrigued to research and find out more about her and the brand and to develop my own images in the style of her. 


Thursday, 28 January 2016

Researching into Brands

After briefly researching the brands, I have decided that on the ones that interest me the most. These are; Illamasqua, Ellis Faas and M.A.C. The reason I have decided to further research these brands is because they are probably the most creative ones to choose and can pretty much do anything with them.

Illamasqua

The first one is Illamasqua, a British cult cosmetic brand that emerged on the scene in London in November 2008. The company has since been named as one of the fastest growing brands in cosmetic history. With an emphasis on individuality, Illamasqua's CEO Julian Kynaston and a trio of iconic artists came together to create a cosmetic line that would engage consumers on an emotional level along with the longevity of professional products. 
Information from: http://www.hollywoodnoirmakeup.com/company-profile-illamasqua/

Illamasqua has launched the new slick sticks collection for 2016. Express your creativity in all its guises with their new selection of beautiful slick stick shades for 2016. Colour intense, retractable lip and eye crayons create long-lasting definition. 

Image from: http://www.illamasqua.com/
Slick Stick Lip:
Shades available: Amaze (Deep Berry), Pride (Raspberry), Fervor (Coral), Delight (Hot Pink), Dream (Nude Brown), True (Nude), Flush (Pink), Adorn (Red)

Slick Stick Eye:
Shades available: Mass (Black), Igneous (Plum), Alloy (Bronze), Iron (Graphite)
Information from: http://thefashionwithstyle.com/healthy-livings/illamasqua-launches-the-new-slick-sticks-2016-collection/


Ellis Faas

Ellis was born and raised in the Netherlands. From an early age on, Ellis had a good eye for fashion, coupled with a strong opinion about what was or wasn't beautiful. She plastered her bedroom walls with images from Vogue and would often make her own clothes (sometimes with great success; other times failing miserably). She also developed a passion for photography, especially in the documentary, portrait and over-stylised fashion and beauty genres. Inspired greatly by the work of photographers such as Yousuf Karsh and Serge Lutens, Ellis decided to pursue a career in professional photography when she left school. While on her course, Ellis kept using herself as a model. Each time, she would completely transform herself with make-up. Increasingly, Ellis started to dislike the technical side of photography, while her love for the more intuitive aspect of make-up kept growing. Ellis has worked with the likes of Giorgio Armani, Yves Saint-Laurent Haute Couture, Givenchy, Gucci, Karl Lagerfeld, Harper’s Bazaar and many Vogues. 
Information from: http://www.ellisfaas.com/brand/about/

From the tawny peach of a freckle to the pure, vivid red that pulses through our veins, the Ellis Faas Human Colours collection looks to the human palette for inspiration. The colours that exist naturally in our bodies are complex and rich, but they're also universal, shared by each and every one of us. Based on this universal spectrum, Ellis Faas Human Colours complement all skin tones, and when it comes to looking one's best, what better way to highlight a great feature or mask an imperfection than with tones and hues that already exist in each of us?
Information from: http://www.ellisfaas.com/brand/human-colours/

Ellis Red is Ellis' signature colour: it is based on the natural colour of blood. That colour is the same in all of us, so therefore it doesn't clash with anyone's skin. Loved by women who never wore any other red lipstick before, as well as by red lipstick die-hards. Ellis Red comes in all three Ellis Lips textures: Creamy Lips (which feels the most like a traditional lipstick), Milky Lips (for those who do not like the feel of a lipstick - it is a lighter texture) and Glazed Lips (a non-sticky gloss, with a higher pigment load than regular glosses).
Information from: http://www.ellisfaas.com/collection/ellis-red

Image from: http://www.ellisfaas.com/collection/ellis-red/
Although Ellis doesn't actually have a SS16 collection, she releases monthly visuals which are then made available to purchase as a set of the products she uses. 

November 2015
Image from: https://uk.pinterest.com/pin/544372673690058723/
December 2015
Image from: https://twitter.com/ELLISFAAS/media
January 2016
Image from: https://twitter.com/ELLISFAAS/media

M.A.C

M.A.C is the world's leading professional makeup authority because of their unrivalled expertise in makeup artistry. They celebrate diversity and individuality, for all ages, races and sexes. M.A.C is a proud community of professional makeup artists working together to bring our vision to life. They are at the forefront of fashion trendsetting, collaborating with leading talents from fashion, art and popular culture. Their artists create trends backstage at fashion weeks around the world.
Information from: http://www.maccosmetics.com/our-story

M.A.C has released their new collection Flamingo Park for SS16. "A picnic…a park…a girl of whimsy with a sweet tooth…unexpected guests…a curious flamingo! That's spring; it's an adventure. Plunge into the punchy pleasures of pink with scrumptious colours for eyes and nails that let you have your cake, and wear it too. Try a tempting twist on vibrant eye shadow with new Eye Shadow X 9: Flamingo Park, a pretty palette that’s sweetly chic."
Information from: http://www.maccosmetics.com/collections-flamingo-park-1


Image fromhttp://www.maccosmetics.com/collections-flamingo-park-1
Image fromhttp://www.allure.com/beauty-trends/blogs/daily-beauty-reporter/2016/01/mac-flamingo-park-collection.html

After researching into more depth about these brands and about their SS16 collections and work, I have decided to choose Ellis Faas as my brand. The reason being is because I had never heard of her work before and am fascinated to research more behind her. And I am intrigued by the way she only uses human colours. I think her work is quite out there which means that I can be as creative as I want. Like last year, I want to push myself and produce some really creative work that represents my ideas and my chosen brand. 

Make-up - Matte & Dewy Skin

Tips:
  • It is very important to prep the skin to achieve a healthy looking glow. If you have the time, use face-masks to create the best canvas (can be homemade and natural) or leaving moisturiser to sit and soak in the skin, especially if the skin is dry and dehydrated.
  • Experiment with damp brushes or sponges to create different finishes, a damp sponge will help the product into the skin. 
  • Always prep and prepare the skin when focusing on beautiful skin. Use a tinted moisturiser before you start any foundation or concealer coverage for an extra glow. 
  • Use a suitable primer to build your canvas to work with. Use a mattifying primer if the skin is oily. Don't use too much product and be sure to blend out the product so there aren't any harsh lines.
  • Apply concealer after the foundation where needed to the shadowed areas on the face and to any imperfections to cover up. But don't use too much as you want it to appear natural.
  • Foundations do not always necessarily have to be applied all over the face, they can be applied in the centre/forehead and blended out for a more flawless natural finish. Don't use too much product as you want the skin to be as natural looking as possible.
First have a chat/consultation with your model to see what skin type they have. The drier the skin, the more moisture they will need however it is still possible to create a dewy finish on oily skin. Think about using a matte foundation mixed with a highlighter or liquid illuminator in areas where you want the glow. Start with matte in the centre with the highlighting products more towards the outer face. Start lightly, keeping it looking natural for a radiant finish and avoid highlighting any pores.


Below are some editorial images I have found which demonstrates matte and dewy skin. Both are popular trends that are equally seen in magazines and catwalks. 


Images from: http://jamienelsonphoto.blogspot.co.uk/2014/10/shoot-with-gucci-westmanrevlon-beauty.html?view=sidebar
http://www.fashionmagazine.com/beauty/2015/05/11/dewy-skin-trend/


Equipment:

  • Brushes
  • Sponges
  • Moisturisers
  • Toners
  • Tinted Moisturisers
  • Primers
  • MAC Strobe Cream
  • Foundations
  • Concealer
  • Translucent Powder
  • Highlighter

Before

Steps: Matte Skin

  1. Place the cape around your model to protect clothing.
  2. Remove any makeup, paying particular attention to the eyes where mascara gets left.
  3. Prep the skin using moisturiser and allow to skin in to rehydrate, pay attention to drier areas of the skin, especially when creating a matte look.
  4. Apply a matte primer to the skin.
  5. Apply a light layer of liquid foundation to the skin and blend and buff out. 
  6. Take a small concealer brush and apply colour correcting concealer to under the eyes and any imperfections on the skin. 
  7. Apply a small amount of translucent powder to the skin to complete the matte finish desired. 



Steps: Dewy Skin

  1. Place the cape around your model to protect clothing.
  2. Remove any makeup, paying particular attention to the eyes where mascara gets left.
  3. Prep the skin using moisturiser and allow to skin in to rehydrate, pay attention to drier areas of the skin. 
  4. Mix MAC Strobe Cream with liquid foundation and blend into the face to give a even coverage. 
  5. Take a small concealer brush and apply colour correcting concealer to under the eyes and any imperfections on the skin. 
  6. Add any highlighter to the areas of the skin that the light hits first e.g. cheekbones, forehead, brow bones, nose, cupids bow and chin.



I am used to creating a matte finish as I do this on myself every day so it was different to make the skin completely dewy and glossy looking. I enjoyed creating this although I did want to go in with powder to mattify the skin! I think I definitely need to expand my kit more with different illuminators and different types of primers to ensure that I can easily create these looks on different skin types and tones. 

Hair - Blow drying

To create the perfect blow dry, it is important (especially for hair that is thick and long) to be 80% wet. In order to do this, lightly dry the hair using a large comb to brush through any tangles.

Equipment:

  • Paddle brush
  • Hair dryer with nozzle
  • Mousse
  • Salt spray
  • Heat protector
  • Denman brush
  • Large comb

Tips:
Check the clients scalp for any irritation and ask the client what their hair type is and if they are prone to anything as this will indicate which products you can and can't use.



Steps: Volume, Lift and Curl

  1. Brush the hair through to remove any tangles.
  2. Spray heat protector on the hair before blow drying.
  3. Always consider/ask if the clients extensions are real or fake as this will change the heat settings that you can use on the hair. 
  4. Apply mousse to the mid and ends of the hair and a small amount to the roots to give the hair volume. 
  5. Apply salt spray in the same place you applied the mousse to add texture.
  6. Section the hair in half at the back and section one side on a slant at the back. It is important to create the right section as it will determine how much of a curl you will get. 
  7. Angle the hair into a triangle shape so the curl isn't in straight sections. Don't make the sections too thick as it won't fit around the brush.
  8. Use the medium or large brush if you want larger curls. 
  9. Make sure the hair dryer has a filter on the back, this is to ensure the hair doesn't get sucked in the back. Also make sure the nozzle is on as this will help in directional flow. 
  10. Lift the hair upwards, placing the brush underneath and using your thumb to hold the hair as you curl it. Dry the roots first, drying under and over the brush to create lift. Keep the hair up high so that it doesn't drop. Dry the mid length of the hair, if the hair is perfectly then it won't get tangled.
  11. Wrap hair around the brush and hold the hair dryer on it. Once cooled, twist the brush out to create a curl and lift. If you want a more prominent curl, take a clip and leave it to cool so it sets. Come back at the end to dress them out. 
  12. When it comes to the top of the head, section the curl into a triangle so it goes to a point at the back.

Steps: Straight and Sleek
  1. The best brushes to use for this are the paddle and Denman brush. Take the brush, so you get a bit of a lift but so that it is smooth.
  2. Lift the hair nice and high and dry the roots and then onto the mid length hair, bringing the brush round and rotating it round so it creates lift. The Denman brush creates a lot more lift than the paddle brush as it is smaller. 
  3. Dry shampoo is a great styling aid, use it before back combing to help it stay in. It is also good if you've used too much mousse as it will dry it out. It also helps to keep the blow dry in for a couple of days as the dry shampoo makes it last longer. Use a spray shine to give it a nice healthy look, you can either put it in your hands and smooth it through the hair or spray directly on it. 

Due to the length of my models hair and the time we had in lesson, I decided to create the straight and sleek hair. 



I was holding the hair dryer at the wrong angle which was causing some of the hairs to stray. Lottie showed me the correct way of holding it so that all the hairs were being dried down and I can instantly see the difference. It looks like her hair has been straightened. 


Overall, I feel much more confident with blow drying hair now. I understand what angle you need to hold the hairdryer in order for the hair to be completely straight. I would like to practice on different length hair but I really enjoyed this lesson and learning new techniques. 

Photography Session - Introduction

This was a refresher lesson to get back into photography. We were reminded of the different types of lighting and how to set up a basic studio.


Types of Lighting: 
1. Soft Box - soft lighting
2. Beauty Dish - hard lighting

Aperture - size of the hole in the lens, how much light it lets through. f-stop is the size of the hole. The smaller the number, the bigger the hole.
Sync lead - plugs into the key (main) light.
Light meter - measures the light/flash to see how bright it is. Measures in aperture. Hold the light meter next to the model, the same distance at the side of the models face.
1) Turn on
2) Hold down button that says ISO
3) Using the arrow keys, set the ISO to 100.
4) Set camera ISO to 100.
5) Mode Button: Scroll through 4 different modes and select the lighting bolt with a little c next to it.
6) Hold sync lead into light meter.
7) F. 8 on camera, take photograph and it will be the correct aperture.

Setting up lighting:
Ignore the numbers on the side of light. Change the brightness by twisting the buttons to change it.
The lamp changes the brightness of the modelling lamp. The bigger the number the brighter the light, the smaller the number the dimmer the light.
                  
Unfortunately, we forgot to bring memory cards/sticks so have no photographs to upload. The photographs we did take included soft box and beauty dish lighting. 

Unit Introduction

In our lesson, we talked about the brief, breaking it down to understand it. This helped me as I understand what I am expected to do for this unit. In addition to this, I have briefly looked at the list of brands in more detail to help me choose which one to use. I have noted down a few quotes and brief information about the history of each brand to see what one/s is of interest to me. 

  • Illamasqua - "With British creativity at our roots and self expression in our hearts our mission is to inspire you to take pride in everything you are an all you aspire to become." Illamasqua, a combination of "illusion" and "masquerade".
  • Bobbi Brown - "The secret to beauty is simple: be who you are." Fresh, clean and modern beauty.
  • YSL - Yves Saint Laurent Beaute is the makeup, fragrance and skincare signature of the most subversive Parisian couture brand. No compromise. Your own rules. Now.
  • Laura Mercier - Known for her speciality of creating the flawless face, Laura Mercier is a world-renowned makeup artist and creator of Laura Mercier Cosmetics, Skincare, Body & Bath and Fragrance. 
  • Dior - The house of Christian Dior is not only a modern fashion giant but posses and incredibly rich history and timeless designs. From the very beginning of its days in Paris to its gradual and steady expansion globally, this label has never stopped whisking people away with its innovative approach to fashion and magical collections.
  • Revlon - In 1932, brothers Charles and Joseph Revson, along with chemist CR Lachman, would change the beauty industry forever. Revlon began with a single product: revolutionary nail enamel that came in colours other than red. Soon, the colourful, opaque shades were seen on women's fingertips everywhere - including the cover of Vogue. 
  • Ellis Faas Ellis Red is Ellis' signature colour: it is based on the natural colour of blood. That colour is the same in all of us, so therefore it doesn't clash with anyone's skin. 
  • Chanel - The cosmetics and perfume wing of the French fashion house began many years ago with a little fragrance called No5. 
  • Tom Ford -  Tom Ford is a fashion designer and film director who was the Creative Director of Gucci from 1994-2004. He founded his own Tom Ford fashion label in 2004.
  • Shiseido - With nearly 140 years of experience, Shiseido creates premium products developed with the most advanced technology and the best of nature. Fusing Japanese spiritual culture with scientific expertise, they offer highly targeted products for all skin types and ages.
  • Charlotte Tilbury - "I love creating new formulas and discovering new beauty products so I'm thrilled to now be pouring all of my secrets and passion into my own range".
  • NARS- Francois NARS, launched NARS cosmetics with 12 iconic lipsticks in 1994, inspires self expression and imaginative artistry through an unexpected, no-rules philosophy of beauty. 
  • Max Factor - In Hollywood's golden age, when it came to makeup only one name was on the lips of the stars, Mr Max Factor, a visionary makeup artist, wig maker and inventor. Max Factor was known for creating the signature looks for the eras most famous icons. "You are not born glamorous. Glamour is created".
  • Lancôme - For more than 80 years Lancôme, the worlds leading luxury beauty brand, has epitomised beauty and glamour with a quintessential French touch. The brand continues to strengthen its reputation as a makeup authority and skincare innovator, not merely keeping pace but surpassing expectations by continually taking science and creativity to new levels. 
  • M.A.C - M.AC was established in Toronto when makeup artist and photographer, Frank Toskan and beauty salon owner, Frank Angelo brainstormed a makeup line. Frustrated because of the lack of colours that would shoot well with photography; their aim was to develop a makeup line that would fulfil their professional needs. The two entrepreneurs cooked up the cosmetics in their kitchen and sold them from the hair salon. 
  • Givenchy - Givenchy is a luxury French brand of haute couture clothing, accessories, perfumes and cosmetics. The house of Givenchy wad founded in 1952 by designer Hubert de Givenchy.
Information from:
http://www.theguardian.com/fashion/fashion-blog/2011/nov/28/brief-history-of-illamasqua
http://www.illamasqua.com/about-us/
http://www.bobbibrown.co.uk/about-bobbi
http://www.loreal.com/brand/l%E2%80%99or%C3%A9al-luxe/yves-saint-laurent-beaut%C3%A9
https://www.lauramercier.com/lauras-artistry/
http://www.fashionintime.org/history-of-dior/
http://www.revlon.com/behind-the-color/legacy
http://www.ellisfaas.com/collection/ellis-red/
http://www.theguardian.com/fashion/fashion-blog/2012/feb/20/brief-history-of-chanel
http://www.biography.com/people/tom-ford-5936
http://www.johnlewis.com/brand/shiseido/_/N-1z13zy3
http://www.charlottetilbury.com/us/about-me/
http://www.narscosmetics.com/USA/francois-nars.html
https://maxfactor.co.uk/heritage/the-max-factor-story
http://www.maccosmetics.jobs/mac/our-history.html
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Givenchy